With all the compromised material taken out, we began to reframe and sheath the framed portion of the gable end. The gable end has an inward slant, out of plumb about a half an inch over 8’. We believe this is likely due to the reduction of brick course thickness as the building gains height. My boss has noted that much older masonry structures were built with an intentional inward tilt, leading to both gable ends slightly leaning towards each other, from foundation to top of the gable ends, to put compression on the building as most masonry buildings struggle with bowing outwards against lateral force. From the base of the structure we estimate the building is 3 brick courses thick, potentially four including the chimney and fireplace portion, to match the thickness of the log walls. Upon reaching the second floor, the brick course is reduced to 2, where the floor joist sits upon a shelf.
The original reveal of the siding was flush with the existing rake board. In order to match this reveal, we needed to use 1”, 5/4” or true 1”, pressure treated material. My boss decided to invest in using locust as the wood material for the german siding as the wood is extremely durable in both hardness and rot resistance. Because this material will mate with the roof surface, it is best to use such a durable material. The siding is 1” thick, with the bevel reducing to approximately ½” where the siding laps over another.
Once the sheeting was replaced, we put Tyvek up as a moisture barrier for the structure. In order for moisture to continue to wick down the tyvek, we put spacer strips made out of tar paper so the back of the wooden siding would have an air gap to dry out. The roof sheeting of the kitchen addition was laid to make accommodation for the siding size, as well as appropriate flashing, so the first courses of siding were barely visible as they had to travel inside the attic of the kitchen. The siding was laid with stainless steel nails with a larger shank size to accommodate the hefty weight of the locust. In order for the nail heads to be flush to the surface size, we pre-drilled the boards and countersank the surface creating a divot for the nail head to fit into.
As the courses progressed, we reached the location of where a new louver window would be installed. The previous window was badly deteriorated and allowed no airflow through the attic. To allow complete air circulation from the front log structure down the ell addition, we decided to install a permanent louver window. Once again, because of the compromised location of this louver window, we used Sapele wood, a mahogany derivative, which we had leftover material in 1” from our previous work. We were careful to ensure that the louvre openings overlapped one another to prevent driving rain from entering the attic through the window. Once completed, we had to install the heavy window, precariously supported by me on a roof while my boss secured it inside the attic framing. Several attempts were made to ensure the window was plumb and square as it marked the end courses of siding around it which needed to be flush and tight.

